Wood on board
Let´s focus on all the woodwork outside. And all the bloody different ways how to treat it.
As I am very opinionated, here we go. I would never use any kind of Jotun, Hempel ( no matter if two component or one component) on wood. Unless you really hate wood and wanna kill your boat. Stick to the basics and the traditional stuff is my recommendation. Feel free to submit and add and correct.
-
From Wille Christiani, Greyhound, Sweden:
On Grayhound we call it G.U.M (Grayhound Universal Mix)- Because we put it on almost everything! The advantage of Roslags-mahogany compared to pure tar is that it is not sticky.
1 part wood tar (100% pure wood tar) + 1 part raw linseed oil + 1 part balsamic turpentine (derived from pine trees and not the chemical version). The later two must be pre-mixed and poured into the tar. This tar paint, which dries in a couple of days to a couple of weeks, can also be broken with dry pigment or ready-made linseed oil paint into shades other than the natural brown.
As you add and build up layers (you can paint wet in wet but it dries quite quick I dry weather) you can add less and less turpentie. Play around and you will find your own mix that works for you and your ship/wood/purpose.
As the layers build up it creates a hard water resistant surface. Almost like a varnished surface but a bit more redish (depends on the kind of wood and the state of it before application). When we renovated all our wooden blocks I soaked the wood part of the blocks in a bath of GUM for 1 week or longer. It basically gives back life to the wood as we in effect are adding back resin to the wood while also creating a protective water repellent and resistant surface.
The GUM can also be added to any metal. As we paint our blocks we paint all of it including schackles and oins etc. It creates a protective layer as well. Sure it wears off but better than bitumen paint. And it looks good! text goes here
-
5-10 kg of carbon black in 200 liters of wood tar. It is best to first stir the carbon black into a paste in a little turpentine, otherwise there is a risk of the tar becoming gritty. Translated into a smaller amount, 25 g of carbon black is used for 1 liter of wood tar. On Grayhound they mixed in Raw Linseed oil with Kimrök powder and applied it to our hull intead of nasty bitumen paint. Works wonders and looks beautiful!
For new tarring - heat the tar in a water bath to a thin consistency so that it penetrates and impregnates the wood. It is also possible to use a thermostatically controlled oil heater. Set the temperature to 60 - 70°C, and the tar will flow easily.
by Wille Christiani, Greyhound, Sweden
-
Linseed oil (raw, cold pressed): soaks nicely into wood, has no treatment against fungus and worms, will most commonly turn black due to mildew.
Linseed Oil (raw, cold pressed) with Tar My choice to go to. If you dont mind that it blackens the wood, for working ships or traditional ships. Prevents rot, mildew and all kinds of stuff. Its great.
Linseed Oil (raw, cold pressed) with Petroleum: soaks nicely into wood, some people say it goes deeper, bets are out on that, the mix with petroleum will prevent mildew and other fungus and worms.
Linseed oil (raw, cold pressed) with Tar and white spirit: Same as above, but tries up quicker and allegeldy soaks in deeper.
Linseed oil (“boiled”, pasteurized): Prevents mildew and fungus, will sit a bit more on the surface, having a varnish look.
-
Its awesome, needs many thin layers, takes time to dry up. Pre-oil your wood with 1-2 layers of linseed oil before starting applying the paint. Can be freshend up by oiling with linseed oil. Good stuff. Doesnt harm the wood, let it breathe and gives it some love. Linseed oil paint has a matt finish, sensitive to scratches and soap
-
Can be applied as last layer on linseed oil paint, mix a little bit in. Gives the Paint a glossy finish and makes it more resistent and varnish like. Less sensitive to scratches and soaps.
Tonkinois:
Its an oil based varnish, goes well with oiled wood. Well known boat and marine varnish. It goes super well together with natural products, can be applied to all types of wood, stays flexible, waterproof…….the fanclub can easilie be googled. Its the miracle worker under the varnishes. But it also is expensive.
-
I keep stumbeling across it, on plenty of boats. Best stick to the Instuctions of Owatrol than making up your own….D1 alone is great, basically does the same as linseed oil. D2 i find to suck a little bit. Takes endless coats and once its scratched its a fuckshow to repair and make nice again, espacially while sailing. Please let me know if i miss something there? But I kinda got very used to D1, easy going, easy to maintain. D2 only if you got enough time and you wanna look like a fancy pancy glossy ship.
-
Uses on Mercator. As she is not an active ship anymore, handle this with care. But the pinrail looked absolutley shiny and could take the beating of down and uprigging (scratching tools and carabines and harnesses over it) and still looked dashing and without a scratch. They applied 7 coats. Pretty!
-
High quality penetrating oil varnish.
statsraad lehmkuhl uses it as finish on pinrail and blocks.
